Design Variations for the Shirred Babydoll Dress

Today I'm sharing a few ideas for how you can adapt the Shirred Dress pattern into other styles, plus a new sewn sample and some vintage inspiration.

Hello mathy friends! Today, I'm sharing three design variations for the Shirred Babydoll Dress pattern. Believe me, I know that a babydoll style is not for everyone but this pattern is very versatile and not at all limited to the babydoll length. You don't even need to sew shirring to use this pattern. You can use elastic to gather the neckline, a drawstring or a combo of both. Increasing or decreasing the ease is another way to adjust the design. Ok, are you convinced? :) Let's dive in.

Design Variation 1 Elastic Strap Dress

If you don't want sleeves, you can convert the sleeves into straps. The strap pattern piece can be created by cutting off the top of the of the sleeve pattern piece.

I actually took my first muslin for this pattern and refashioned it into this variation. (See photos below.) For the straps, I decided to keep the 1/2" ruffle and use 3/4" elastic. I selected a 3/8" seam allowance to reduce bulk and trimming. So, I cut the sleeves down to 3.5", which is 1.75" on either side of the facing fold line. I also added a little bit of curve to the underarm sleeve.

I attached the straps in the same position where the sleeves had been and finished the raw edge of the underarm with bias strips. Instead of elastic in the front casing, I used a self fabric drawstring. I sewed two buttonholes at the center front for the drawstring to exit the casing.

It took a bit of experimenting to get the elastic lengths right so if you try this style, I recommend cutting the elastic longer and then baste and check the fit. I ended up using a longer elastic length for the straps than I did for the sleeves of my other sample. I think this is a really sweet dress and for me, I’m most likely to wear this style as a nightgown.

Design Variation 2 Keyhole Shirred Top

This pattern can easily be shortened into a peasant style top. This design goes all in on shirring with shirring at the hem of the sleeves and the body. I think it would be really cute—very 70s boho style. I also remember my grandma wearing tops in the 80s that had elastic hems. It’s about time that style came back around! You could even shorten it into a crop top with the hem ending at the natural waist, or just below the bust.

To make this, you'll need to shorten the length of the body and make sure the facing is long enough to create a keyhole at the center front. To make the keyhole, fold the facing along the fold line so that RIGHT sides are together. Then stitch through both layers to make the shape you want cut away. Make sure to leave a gap for the drawstring. Trim and clip the seam allowance and turn to the right side. Then, you can stitch a casing and insert a drawstring, just as you would elastic.

Design Variation 3 Fitted Shirred Dress

This variation is inspired by a vintage dress that I own and love (see photos below). The dress is probably a smidge too small for me and has torn at the underarms (a good reason why we need ease in our garments). But, I think it’s a great example of a variation on this design. The fit is much slimmer, knee-length, and there is elastic at the waist to create a more fitted silhouette. The sleeves are split open from the shoulder to the hem with elastic at the hem and a tie at the shoulder.

To make the split sleeves, I would cut four pieces, cutting where the pattern piece was previously placed on the fold. Then hem that center edge before folding down the facing and stitching the casing.

I really love this dress and would like to try remaking it with a little more ease. This fabric also has a little bit of stretch which is nice. (Apologies for the blurry photo on the right.)

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Thank you so much for following along with this project! I really hope that you enjoyed it. Let me know if you have any questions. And if you make a garment using this project, I’d love to see it!

I’m going to announce our next project later this week. Any guesses? Let me know in the comments. Here are a few hints:

1. It’s a cool weather garment.

2. It’s a layering piece.

3. It’s vintage inspired and classic Pacific Northwest.

Happy mathing!

Beth

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