Glossary & Tools

Definitions of technical drafting terms that are frequently used here. Plus a summary of tools that you will need to follow along with the projects. This post will be updated as needed.

Glossary of commonly used terms

Seam allowance

The seam allowance is the distance from the cut edge of the fabric to the stitching line. In commercial patterns this can be anywhere from 1/4” to 5/8”. In metric patterns, I often see a 1cm seam allowance which is very close to 3/8”.

When drafting your own patterns, you get to choose the seam allowance you want to use. (There are lots of reasons for bigger or smaller seam allowances, depending on the type of project and personal preference.)

Personally, I generally use a 1/2” seam allowance because it makes the math very easy. When a pattern piece has a seam on each side, I can easily add 1” to the dimension. It’s a simple addition and keeps the numbers easier to handle. (I think those who use metric prefer a 1 cm seam allowance for this reason.)

Hem allowance

The hem allowance is how much extra fabric is added to the pattern at the hem (think the bottom of pants, a skirt, a dress, a top or even sleeves.) Again, this amount is personal preference and will change based on the fabric and garment type.

Personally, my default hem allowance is 1.5 inches. That’s generally enough to work with but not too much that it will waste fabric. If I’m not sure how long I want something, I’ll add a little extra hem allowance.

Seam line

This seam line can also be called the stitching line and it’s where you will stitch through the fabric. I will usually indicate the seam line with a dashed line.

Cutting line

This is the line on the pattern that indicates where you cut the fabric. I will usually indicate the cut line with a solid line.

Ease

Understanding ease is essential for finding a fit that you like. Ease is the difference between the finished garment and the body. (And remember “difference” just means that we subtract the body measurement from the finished garment measurement.)

If the garment is bigger than the body, then there is positive ease. Most non-stretch garments will have at least a little positive ease so that you can move and breathe in your clothing and not feel constricted. Ease can also be used to create a certain style. The more positive ease a garment has, the more “oversized” it will look.

If the garment is smaller than the body, then there is negative ease. (For example, a swimsuit, body suit or leggings will be cut smaller than the body but the fabric stretches to fit.)

Tools

Flexible measuring tape

A flexible measuring tape is the best way to take your body measurements. It’s also helpful for measuring fabric and visualizing the size of something before you cut.

Paper

I like to buy rolls of tracing paper to use when making patterns. You can also upcycle paper you find around your house.

Notebook + Pen/pencil

I highly recommend having a dedicated sewing notebook or sketchbook that you can use to make notes on your projects.

Calculator

It’s very handy to be able to check your numbers. I often use the calculator on my phone or computer.

Spreadsheet software

Sometimes I use a spreadsheet to create a pattern calculator. These will most often be shared via Google Sheets. Sheets is a web based software program that you can use for free with a Google account.

Vector drawing software

I often use Adobe Illustrator to draft patterns. I will occasionally share tutorials for how to use Illustrator to draft a pattern. Illustrator can be expensive to purchase so I recommend checking out free online software vector programs such as Inkscape or Vectr.