Behind the scenes from pattern release week (and a quick poll!)

This week I'm sharing a bit of the pattern design process between initial drafting and launch. Plus a poll for what project you'd like to sew next.

Hello my mathy friends! I'm taking a break from the Circular Bags project this week because I've been very busy getting a new sewing pattern launched (and working a FT job :P).

But first, just in case you're new around here, here's a little bit about my background and what I've been doing on the interwebs the last 20 or so years. My name is Beth and while I've only been on Substack for (almost!) one year, but I've been sewing since the mid-1990s and blogging about sewing since 2006. In 2014, I started my current sewing blog Sew DIY and in 2015, I released my first pdf sewing pattern, the Lou Box Top.

While I've always been working on my blogging and pattern business in some capacity, my volume of content has ebbed and flowed over the years. The last few years have felt especially slow on the pattern design and blogging front. It was a combination of chronic migraine, lots of freelance work and a big move to Seattle. Plus, a certain level of disenchantment with social media and loss of interest in the type of content I was making for so many years. Fortunately, writing this Substack has really revived my excitement for pattern making, especially because I get to play around with math so directly and share that side of my interests.

This week was really exciting because I released my first new pdf sewing pattern since summer 2023 (which un-coincidentally was also when I moved to Seattle). It's taken me a while to settle in to my new studio space (despite it being 4 times the size) and also to figure out when to spend time on pattern drafting. (I also have a big yard now and I love spending my time outside gardening.)

My new pattern is for a pair of wide leg knit pants. Click here to check it out. This pattern has been in the works since January 2024. I work on my pattern designs in between all of my other projects and one of the hardest things is to take a pattern from the initial idea and the first test or two and then finalize it. Switching between projects, means losing momentum and I often have a hard time coming back to the project. I'm also realizing that the more time I leave in between releases, the harder it is to do it. I just feel very out of practice.

All that is to say, even after 10 years I don’t have a foolproof system or approach to getting things done. I wish I did but instead I just flow with the seasons of life.

So, on the meat of today's post. I thought it might be interesting to share some of the process between initial design and publication.

GRADING SIZES

To grade my patterns, I use the blend tool in Adobe Illustrator. So, rather than taking one size and making it bigger and smaller. I make a pattern for the largest size and the smallest size. Then, I use the Blend tool to make all the sizes in between. As long as each pattern piece has the same number of points in relatively the same position, it works very well.

(Note, before grading, I add the seam allowance and align the pattern pieces so they are nested for easiest usage. For example, if a pattern piece is cut on the fold, I align the folded edge.)

Above is a video where I demonstrate the process of how to grade in Adobe Illustrator. To save time, I have this process saved as an action. That way, I can click one button and it will Blend, open Blend options, Expand then Ungroup the blended objects.

THE LITTLE PATTERN DETAILS

But, we don't stop at grading. Each piece needs markings and organization. This is where as a designer you need to put yourself in the maker's shoes and think about what will help them sew the garment. Each size needs to be dragged to its own layer and styled with its unique stroke. You need to add markings such as the grainline, lengthen/shorten lines, sizes and notches. Then add those markings for every size and drag them to their layer.

And then repeat for every pattern piece. (This can get pretty repetitive and boring but it's not horrible, just tedious.)

ALL THE PDFS

After creating all the pattern pieces, I make the layouts for all the different ways people will print (or project) their patterns. This is similar to building a puzzle and rotating all the pattern pieces to fit on the smallest amount of paper. Above is an example of laying out the tiled pattern. Recently, I’ve started using the largest size and filling it with a color to find the best layout.

I usually start with the tiled file and then do the large copyshop files and finally the projector files. (Inevitably, I always find errors after doing these layouts and I need to update all of the files.)

Instructions, Marketing, Etc.

Besides the actual pattern drafting, there’s also the instruction booklet which includes size charts, fabric estimates, cutting layouts and construction details. Above is a screenshot of all the pages from the finished Jodi Pants instruction booklet. (This pattern is relatively straightforward and simple at just 16 pages.) I follow the same design template for all of my instruction booklets and it’s all laid out in Indesign. So, the only thing I have to do are illustrations, charts and writing.

After all of that comes the marketing. I sew samples. I film the sewing process and edit it into instructional videos. Take photographs. And then there are blog posts, social posts, emails, YouTube videos, etc.

It's all a ton of work and sometimes a pattern is popular and it pays off. And other times a pattern is a dud. I wish it was easier to predict. And I wish it was easier to market. It honestly felt a lot easier ten years ago, but that’s a post for another day.

I hope you found this BTS interesting. Please let me know if you have any questions.

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Finally, a poll for you dear reader!

I’m going to start gearing up for our next project and I’d love to hear what you’re most interested in. The Fitted Woven Skirt would be the most involved but also have the most possibility for variation (we’d make a skirt block with darts, waistband, button and zip closure).

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Sewing With Numbers Drafting Manuals are now available for purchase. I recently added Project 004: The Funnel Neck Pullover so check it out.

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Happy mathing!

Beth